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Eight
intrepid South Africans & one British citizen stood in the
freezing cold at Walvis Bay Harbour on
Thursday 2nd July '09, waiting
for the twin hulled motor boat ‘Antie’
to pick them up for a tour of the Harbour.
The boat came into view with the captain and
another passenger who on closer inspection
appeared to be a seal! The boat came nearer
and the passenger slid into the oily waters.
We had to walk a very wobbly plank to get
into the craft and we were told to stand
along the sides of the boat and leave the
long, vinyl covered seat empty. Leaving the
mooring we then found out why the seat was
empty – a large shiny form jumped onto the
stern and then onto the seat.
Mossie,
our captain informed us that this was
‘Spotty’
a Cape Fur Seal who lived in the harbour
waters and loved to check out the occupants
of ‘Antie’ on a daily basis. He or she (the
sex of seals is very difficult to determine)
was so beautiful with a sleek dark coat and
large brown eyes. Some of the passengers
seemed a little afraid of ‘Spotty’ but
Norman and I stroked her (she was too pretty
to be a male) and found that underneath the
wet fur was a layer of very light coloured,
dense fur. She loved the attention and
stared at us with those huge eyes. Mossie
fed her fresh fish, always offered head
first so that the fish would slither down
her throat easily. Off she went again and
now our attention was taken up by
seven pelicans
that were bobbing about right next to us.
Mossie opened the boat’s throttle and the
birds were left behind until our captain let
out an ear piercing whistle, the pelicans
ran along the water’s surface, took off and
landed next to us. I didn’t realize just
how colourful these birds are with salmon
pink and apricot bodies and creamy yellow
beaks and pouches. They had their fish too
before flying away. Then guess what – back
came ‘Spotty’, Mossie asked me to sit across
the seat and put a towel over my lap, I was
very confused. Another whistle and “Spotty’
jumped onto my lap and snuggled right close
up! After the initial surprise a big, big
hug for this delightful creature.
All this time
we were heading out to sea and looking back
we could see the extent of the very large
harbour of Walvis Bay. There was an oil rig
in for maintenance and another one waiting
off shore for a berth. The rigs come from
Angola and used to travel to Cape Town for
the service but now Walvis has the
facilities needed. As we got further out a
fog was coming down and soon the tops of
ships were lost to sight. On our left we
could see a long sand bank that would
eventually end as Pelican Point. A large
community of Cape Fur Seals was on the bank
and their smell came before their sighting.
There were huge bull seals and their harems
of females with cubs of all sizes. A few
minutes later two kayaks were spotted and
one seemed to be in trouble so off we went
to investigate. One chap had capsized his
kayak and it was waterlogged and very low in
the water, so he was dragged into our
‘Antie’ and taken to the sandbank where a
4x4 vehicle was parked. The man was very
cold, the sea was something like 12 C, and a
bit shocked but gave a merry wave as we went
on our way. We were then told to look out
for Benguela
Dolphins, the smallest of the
dolphin family, that can sometimes be found
in this area. They were there but we could
only see quick flashes of fins and creamy
tummies as they flashed by the side of our
boat.
By this time
we were all quite cold even though Mossie
had been keeping us all warm with small tots
of “Namibian
Coffee”, please note
Carol that this is not available in
a tin, only in brown bottles! He opened the
throttle once again and took us into the lee
of a moored fishing boat and took out tasty
snacks, champagne and fresh oysters. I had
always avoided them as I thought that they
looked really slimy. This time I decided
that this was the time to stop being a wet
blanket and after putting all the trimmings
on, ate my first oyster and found that I
rather liked the experience and had a few
more. Susan also took her
first oyster and the facial expressions were
a sight to be seen. On disembarking along
same wobbly gangplank we found out that we
had been out for over four hours.
Everyone had
had a super time and Norman
and I thought that it was one of the
highlights of our tour and would highly
recommend the experience to anyone. For
myself I had had two really special
experiences, falling in love with
‘Spotty’ and eating non-slimy oysters!! |